2. Sister for Sale

It was just one of those things. You’re the volunteer, but you walk away having gained much more than you had to offer. That’s the best way I can describe our weekend with the Alpine Fund.

We stumbled upon the Alpine Fund’s webpage early in the expedition’s planning stages while searching for information on mountains in Kyrgyzstan. We instantly wanted to help. We got in contact, and although we couldn’t offer a long term commitment (though we would have loved to), we agreed to help run a weekend climbing adventure at Chon-Kurchak, a local sport climbing crag just outside Bishkek in Ala-Archa National Park.

Chon-Kurchak

In their own words, "The Alpine Fund is a small, locally based, non-profit, non-governmental, secular organization that uses the incredible mountain resources of Kyrgyzstan to help the country’s most vulnerable youth challenge themselves for future success. We offer children and young adults from orphanages and street markets the chance to escape the confines of their daily surroundings and challenge themselves in a mountain environment. Through hikes, climbs, education programs, individual mentoring, and college scholarships we seek to gain the trust of these youth and work with them to brighten their future through education and mountain adventure." I can’t say it much better. It’s an outstanding organization full of outstanding people with an outstanding mission.

Besides the weekend clinic, we wanted to use our manpower resources and expedition press to help raise awareness and funds. Through the generosity of our friends, family, and complete strangers, we managed to raise over $2000, donated 10 sleeping mats, a new rope (justropes.com), and a set of 10 quickdraws (DMM). Because many of the donations were made directly to the Alpine Fund online, many of you remain anonymous to us (as does the actual total of our fundraising efforts). To both the anonymous donors and all of you whom sent us checks or gear: THANK YOU. In our fundraising letter, we expressed our sincerest belief in the mission of the Alpine Fund. After spending time with them and the kids, this belief is even stronger.

Now back to the story.

After sending our gear ahead in the Alpine Fund van, we took a taxi to the Alpine Fund office. There we met Abdybek, one of the Alpine Fund interns who we also hired to come along during our expedition as a translator and expedition cook. We jumped into an empty mini-bus, not quite sure what to expect. There was some nervous energy among the team, but this weekend was something we’d been anticipating for a long time. Soon, a group of 10 rambunctious kids streamed into the bus along with five Alpine Fund volunteers (Gaetan, Nargiza, Frieder, Anoeshka, and Maik) and two Alpine Fund Interns (Salavat and Abdybek). The mini-bus was packed full, with a few of the volunteers sitting in the aisle as we slowly made our way out of Bishkek and into the mountains. Although none of us speak Russian or Kyrgyz, we enjoyed observing the inquisitive and nervous chatter of the kids as they scoped us out. The kids came from both CPC-Osh and CPC-Dordoi, so they were getting to know each other too. Much thanks to the volunteers and interns who translated for us throughout the weekend!

After some confusion finding the right roads, we made it to Chon-Kurchak where we met up with Arianna, the Alpine Fund’s director, and later Dave, another volunteer. We learned that the area had previously been a mostly pristine end-of-the-road location, but the recent construction of a resort changed the feel a bit. It was still a beautiful place.

After a brief discussion of the rules, the group broke into teams. We were in charge of setting up topropes while another group set up tents and a third group gathered firewood. The difference in liability/paperwork between what we’d have to deal with at home and the 5 minute discussion we had that morning was intriguing. We were essentially four strangers to these people, yet we were responsible for the climbing safety of the group. In a way, it was refreshing.

Matt belayed Jamie while Chris got a belay from Gaetan. Somehow, I was left with one of the kids, Elgegit (spelling?), as a belayer. Leading with a very inexperience belayer isn’t confidence inspiring, but neither is climbing on a static rope. I essentially considered my two climbs free solos, of which I am not a fan. Thankfully the terrain was moderate. Note: the Alpine Fund would LOVE some new ropes, like the one donated by justropes.com. The four they had previously included a half rope, a static rope, a ragged old rope, and one acceptable rope. If anyone out there can help, please get in touch.

By lunch, we had five topropes set up on routes of varying difficulty. After a delicious meal prepared by the interns, the weekend truly began. In a rush of energy, the kids were giving the climbing all they had. The routes weren’t exactly easy, ranging from maybe 5.5 to 5.10, but youthful energy is relentless. We belayed for a couple hours, learning a few words from the other volunteers to help guide the novice climbers. A few of the kids were naturals, taking to the rock like experienced veterans. Others found it more difficult. Regardless, big grins were compulsory. There’s nothing like seeing the smile when someone completes a route for the first time.

Climbing action!

I won’t pretend that I was able to learn the names of all ten kids when I don’t even know then Russian or Kyrgyz words, but at least a few stories are worth sharing. There was a girl who we affectionately called Lynn Hill (a famous rockclimber). She’s shy; I don’t think she spoke more than five words the entire trip (at least to us). On her first go, she didn’t get very far up the easiest route and didn’t seem all that interested. By the end of the weekend, she’d worn us out. With a look of steely determination, she’d go up and down a route, getting a little further than the time before until she could climb the whole thing. It was amazing.

Kyrgyzstan's "Lynn Hill," always focused.

There were a couple of the boys who were quite good climbers, even tackling some of the tougher routes, although we had to beg them not to grab the bolts! One of them moved with the precision and technique of a seasoned veteran. I remember one time when I watched this kid scramble up to a ledge near the start of the route and help his friend work through the crux move. It was so cool. But what’s really amazing is that they were just simply having fun. They enjoyed the pure essence of being outside, away from the city. They didn’t care about grades, style, or expensive gear. They weren’t in it for the onsight, redpoint, or to send their project. They just climbed up and down the rock because it was fun.

Just having fun!

I’d be remiss if I finished this blog post without mentioning my new favorite t-shirt: “Sister for Sale, (Will take any offer)”. Better yet, the young man wearing it probably had no idea what it meant!

What a shirt.

Most of the kids took a break in the afternoon to explore a waterfall up the canyon, but after a delicious dinner of plov, a traditional Kyrgyz dish, they were back at it for round two. As the day wore on, the kids became more comfortable with us, borrowing our gear, stealing our water, and generally doing the things kids do. Belaying endlessly was exhausting work, but it was also the most fun I’ve had in a while.

That night we sat around a campfire. Even with the language barrier, everyone enjoyed themselves. We sang songs for each other, enjoyed quirky talents, and chatted about our favorite part of the day. For both us and for the kids, it was inspiring to see such an international group, with at least half a dozen countries represented. It was soon time to go to bed, but if we needed a reminder we were hanging with a bunch of fun-loving kids, it came as our tents were pelted by flying shoes. Never a dull moment.

Sunday entailed more climbing and by the early afternoon, everyone was worn out. Before we left, we played a game requiring quick recall of everyone’s name. If it had been survivor, the four of us would have been voted out immediately.

The bus ride back was a bit subdued, mostly due to the high frequency of naps. We all parted ways back at the Alpine Fund office, with the difficult goodbye a reminder of how fast bonds can form. We were just a blip in their life and them in ours, but I hope we had some impact on them because I know the weekend affected us. More than ever, I can see just how much a mountain adventure can change a young adult. Just as we are deeply affected by our climbing adventures, these kids are creating memories, building confidence, and learning all kinds of lessons that can be applied to everyday life, but that can’t be learned from a textbook.

We hope to continue supporting the Alpine Fund when we get back home, and maybe return someday to volunteer. If anyone is looking for a cause to support, the Alpine Fund is as good as any. Especially if you’re a climber, you know the power of an outdoor adventure.

Mike